Stationary Lights!

This post is for my non-blinking (stationary) lights.

I have 2 general light setups; stationary lights and blinking lights.



I will explain the blinking lights (555 timers) and if you want, you can get blinking LEDs but you won't be able to change the timing on those.

Note: I used a 5V D/C as my input source and connect everything in parallel. My white LEDs are 3Vs (used 100 ohm resistor), red LEDs at 2.2v (used 150 ohm resistor), blue LEDs at 3.3vs (used 83 ohm resistor) and maybe the Green/Blue blinkers at 3V (100 ohm resistor)

But anyways, here are my non-blinkers and how they're set up =)

The first up is the bridge lights. Again, I used epoxy to diffuse the light. For lighting, I used a wide-angle, White LED (120degrees) to capture all the main windows. I usually tape down the LED and wires once I get the correct position to keep things neat. In all my circuits, I use "heat shrinks" to cover up the soldering junctions for protection (ie, breakage, shock...etc).
Note: heat shrinks are elastic tubings that shrinks when heat is applied.... it helps making all the circuit components compact and tight.

Next I connect a RED LED to the "warhead launchers". Again, I used epoxy to diffuse the light. I also added a second 150 ohm resistor to make the light dimmer.

In the second picture, I used aluminum foil to block out the white LED from shinning anywhere else inside the model. Aluminum foil also help deflect light, so it makes the windows slightly brighter.

There are 2 tiny spot lights on the sides of the bridge. So I drilled tiny holes for fibre optic cables to run 2 small lights via a single LED. Fiber optics works by transducting light through a medium so that the incident light (source) is almost at the same brightness at the exiting point. (Check out optics in terms of refractions and medium). Fibre optics are used for small lighting and hard to reach spots because of its flexibility. Anyways, for this setup, I have 2 fiber cables running throught a single White LED. With a little heat shrink, the fibers are snap tight to the LEDs and no excessive light would shine out either =)

Light test #1!
Note: The cables won't be cut and trimmed until all lighting is complete =)

For the main "shield generator", there's room to fit a large spot light!!! So I drilled a hole on the piece and 2 small holes for the wires to go through from the main hull piece (second picture)

Here are the results!!!!

Next entry will be about 555 timers!